Post by Robert Braun on Sept 30, 2002 15:27:16 GMT -5
My journey through the ground that witnessed the final days of Black Hawk's War took me south from La Crosse along Route 35 (the River Road) the east to Viroqua to try to find the historical society there, on Center Street (no luck!)
The historical society published a brochure of sorts, with a map to the various concrete hisotrical markers erected by Dr. C. V. Porter after the turn of the century.
Those readers interested in following the path outlined in Bill Stark's Along the Black Hawk Trail will find things changed a bit from the decade in which the book was published. Nearly all of Dr. Porter's markers have been relocated. All are easy to find; they now have special pull-offs, signs pointing out their location, and little shelters erected over the stones. Each site is replete with a disclaimer indicating that the State of Wisconsin does not condone apparently unenlightened and non p.c. word usage of Dr. Porter, yet the markers are posted anyway... with Porter's original verbiage intact.
Persons looking to find Dr. Bean's house between Viroqua and Victory, Wisconsin will be dissappointed. The house was torn down in 1992, and Dr. Porter's marker relocated such that the trace of the Winnebago Trail (the same trail used in part by BH) is now so obscure to the modern visitor as to be unrecognizable.
Happily, the marker for the out post from the British Band (18-20 Sauk sent to lead the army away from the remaining British Band strung out along the river bank) remains very near to the original location, and the Battle Hollow Raod is still drivable, with an excellent turn-around point. Local signs and supplemental postings are misleading, as very little fighting occured in "Battle Hollow." It was a terrain feature that canalized Gen. Henry's troops, along with the revealed location of the British Band's trail to the riverbank. Gen. Henry's discovery of the BB's trail was a deciding factor in the unfolding engagement.
I was amazed to discover that the lookout's point was only a few ridgelines north from Battle Hollow... not far at all, really. The numbers for this action were comparatively small, and the gound covered not appreciably large. I never had the sense of that perspective until I actually saw the ground.
Black Hawk Island, a modern recreational facility managed by the Department of Engineers is a tidy park complete with picnic and camping facilities. Dr. Porter's marker here can be found without too much trouble, but its location is set back from a parking area, and can be missed by the hasty traveler. The feature known as "Black Hawk's Island" or "Battle Island" can be seen from this point.
Nearly all the property along the roadways roughly following the British Band's retreat is private land, so tresspassing is a definate no no. And its tough to really gain an appreciation for the jumble of coulees, hillocks, ravines, draws, and switchbacks in the area from the seat of one's car. It's also easy to see that, once Atkinson's command came upon the riverbanks, there were few places for the British Band to go-- which was the whole point for the attack.
My biggest dissappointment was that I never had the sense of "right here." Markers and verbiage was very vague... sometimes deliberately so. Why? What is the harm in saying "on this exact spot"... particularly when it appears thats several exact spots were known, especially in Dr. Porter's day. The modern historical notations (the ones that carry the Wisconsin disclaimer against Porter) are little help.
That being said, I was glad I took the time and travelled the area. It was a pilgrimage long overdue and an oportunity to revisit places I saw more than 10 years ago and discover new ones. It was a unique opportunity to review and reflect.
Bob.
The historical society published a brochure of sorts, with a map to the various concrete hisotrical markers erected by Dr. C. V. Porter after the turn of the century.
Those readers interested in following the path outlined in Bill Stark's Along the Black Hawk Trail will find things changed a bit from the decade in which the book was published. Nearly all of Dr. Porter's markers have been relocated. All are easy to find; they now have special pull-offs, signs pointing out their location, and little shelters erected over the stones. Each site is replete with a disclaimer indicating that the State of Wisconsin does not condone apparently unenlightened and non p.c. word usage of Dr. Porter, yet the markers are posted anyway... with Porter's original verbiage intact.
Persons looking to find Dr. Bean's house between Viroqua and Victory, Wisconsin will be dissappointed. The house was torn down in 1992, and Dr. Porter's marker relocated such that the trace of the Winnebago Trail (the same trail used in part by BH) is now so obscure to the modern visitor as to be unrecognizable.
Happily, the marker for the out post from the British Band (18-20 Sauk sent to lead the army away from the remaining British Band strung out along the river bank) remains very near to the original location, and the Battle Hollow Raod is still drivable, with an excellent turn-around point. Local signs and supplemental postings are misleading, as very little fighting occured in "Battle Hollow." It was a terrain feature that canalized Gen. Henry's troops, along with the revealed location of the British Band's trail to the riverbank. Gen. Henry's discovery of the BB's trail was a deciding factor in the unfolding engagement.
I was amazed to discover that the lookout's point was only a few ridgelines north from Battle Hollow... not far at all, really. The numbers for this action were comparatively small, and the gound covered not appreciably large. I never had the sense of that perspective until I actually saw the ground.
Black Hawk Island, a modern recreational facility managed by the Department of Engineers is a tidy park complete with picnic and camping facilities. Dr. Porter's marker here can be found without too much trouble, but its location is set back from a parking area, and can be missed by the hasty traveler. The feature known as "Black Hawk's Island" or "Battle Island" can be seen from this point.
Nearly all the property along the roadways roughly following the British Band's retreat is private land, so tresspassing is a definate no no. And its tough to really gain an appreciation for the jumble of coulees, hillocks, ravines, draws, and switchbacks in the area from the seat of one's car. It's also easy to see that, once Atkinson's command came upon the riverbanks, there were few places for the British Band to go-- which was the whole point for the attack.
My biggest dissappointment was that I never had the sense of "right here." Markers and verbiage was very vague... sometimes deliberately so. Why? What is the harm in saying "on this exact spot"... particularly when it appears thats several exact spots were known, especially in Dr. Porter's day. The modern historical notations (the ones that carry the Wisconsin disclaimer against Porter) are little help.
That being said, I was glad I took the time and travelled the area. It was a pilgrimage long overdue and an oportunity to revisit places I saw more than 10 years ago and discover new ones. It was a unique opportunity to review and reflect.
Bob.